dodging swallowtails

Just off the beaten path, on the outskirts of Dayton Washington, we found a gem -- a small artisinal goat and sheeps milk fromagerie. We met some of their intern cheese makers and loaded up on cheese to power us through the blue mountains. We reached the summit of Allopowa Mountain by sunset where we took in some of our last looks of Washington State. The next morning we crossed into Idaho! In Lewiston, Idaho, we found to our surprise, the best waffles in existence. We had the pleasure of meeting a fellow biker who opened her home to us for a couple days in a very small and quaint town called Kooskia, Idaho. From Kooskia we biked along various connecting rivers through Clearwater National Park en route to Montana. The landscape in northern Idaho was very different than we expected, lots of evergreens (cedars specifically), so much beautiful white water and so many swallowtail butterflies. As an end to our journeys through Idaho and following the Lewis and Clark trail we rode over the Lolo pass (our highest elevation yet-5233 ft) and crossed into Montana. We met a bike couple from Bar Harbor Maine who had been touring for 25 plus years and were headed towards the town of Lolo Montana. Yesterday was an exciting day, we made it to Missoula, hit mile 920 of our trip, visited and toured the Adventure Cycling Association, and met a bunch of other folks who were touring all over America. Truly inspiring people. Just as inspiring, this morning we were treated to Spanish tortilla de patata by our lovely Missoula hosts. Now we´re off towards Yellowstone!

Monteillet Fromagerie- Dayton, WA

The cheese-tasting garden

The cheese-making interns

Mountain man watched us for miles

We live for these signs

At least 80 inches of arable topsoil west of the Snake River

very early morning biking en route to Lewiston, ID

Clearwater River scenery

The serious navigator

We made it to Montana!

Wheat and Peas and Onions, Oh my!

We're moving to and through Walla Walla, Washington en route to Idaho. Our views from the road have been endless miles of Wheat, Barley, Peas, Alfalfa and (in Walla Walla) Onions. We've passed hundreds of wind turbines -- they're surprisingly quiet. We've had the pleasure of staying with two wonderful hosts in the past week and are so grateful for a bed and amazing home cooked food! This afternoon we're going to hit our 600-mile mark and soon we'll be crossing the border into Idaho.


A windy beach campsite





Lindsay and the wind turbines


Haha!


Good ol' American hay


John Day Dam


Miles and miles of cherry trees


Coal train, at least 100 cars deep


Crow's Butte campsite


The lucky dog!


One of our last views of the Columbia River


The "twin sisters"


Horse farm


a dust roll


pedaling into Walla Walla, our first 90-mile day!


the pea and lentil capital of the world!



Old Star Barn circa 1859

We've officially turned east

We turned east and headed through the Columbia River Gorge. Since leaving Portland we've passed through some of the most gorgeous landscapes we've ever seen. We've gone through gradual and painstaking slopes that have some of the most rewarding views from the top. We rode on the Old Columbia River Highway which was previously an interstate and transit course for goods from 1915 to the mid-1930s. We bombed down hills that went for up to four miles that were once the racing courses for old Model-Ts. The winds have started picking up, literally pushing us east as the landscape begins to change into high desert. We're starting to really appreciate our decision to ride from west to east. This morning we literally were pushed up hills at about 14 miles per hour without pedaling!



Hollywood District- Portland, OR



View of Columbia River Gorge and Vista House (on the cliff on the right)



At the Oregon Women's Forum viewpoint




View of the sunset on the Columbia River

Multnomah Falls

Sometimes it feels like this.

Lindsay's mountain song.

Crossing back over into Washington- the Bridge of the Gods (and some delicious smoked salmon)

Changing landscape!

Week 1

It felt like we just threw our bikes into the back of Nat's pick up truck, hopped on three trains and miraculously showed up in Seattle, WA!
After our first night on the the train we woke up in Toledo, OH to the aftermath of a tornado with torn up trees on either side of the tracks (which made us want to buy a Worst Case Scenario/Survival Guide for the trip). We saw so many beautiful parts of the country from the Great Lakes region, through the Dakotas, the Cascades and on to the Pacific Coast. After a day of the unchanging North Dakota landscape we questioned our sanity but Glacier National Park made up for it at the end.

Chicago


In the lounge car in the train


Mississippi River


North Dakota morning


Montana

Montana


Glacier National Park


Glacier National Park

Our bike trip kick-off started at the beautiful home of the Geigers in Woodinville, WA where we finally got to sleep horizontally for the first time in four days, explored the Pike Place Market, ate delicious sea food, experienced the bike shops, bike routes (and hills) of Seattle, and the rainy north western weather.

Seattle skyline from the ferry to Bremerton

Phil, Lindsay's friend from college, gave us a proper send off to our tour by joining us for the first three days on our way down to Portland. For the first couple of days we rode through Washington's mountainous and lush landscape. We passed through some old growth forests, prairie, rode along riverbeds, and passed a great number of waterfalls along the way.

In Cathlamet, WA we crossed paths with Toni, the children's librarian, who graciously brought us into her home, shared her kitchen and comfy couches. We decided to continue on that day and rode the windy ferry over the river to Oregon.

Riding along the Columbia River was beautiful but extremely windy. We were passed all day by logging trucks stacked with freshly cut wood more often than not taken from clear cut landscapes that we also passed on our way. These landscapes were an intense and direct reminder of how we exploit our forests.

view of Mt. Saint Helen


Dr Pierce's Favorite Prescription for Weak Women


on the way to Castle Rock


clear-cut landscape


Along the Columbia River

After about four days our muscles started to get used to biking all day and finally on the sixth day of our trip at dusk we crossed the St. John's bridge into Portland. We've been so lucky to stay with Zoe and the whole 33rd Ave household and spent a whole day exploring the city. So many trees, so many bikes, surprisingly flat, amazing thai and happy people!



Crossing the St. John's Bridge into Portland


Portland


Finally found a really good cup of coffee, thank you Portland!







Tomorrow, the 17th, marks our full first week of biking and we've come to the realization that it's the people that we come across that really make this ride amazing although the 11am small-town diner food comes in at a close second. We weren't really expecting it but we've managed to cultivate a fear of small dogs and tractor trailers. Tomorrow we're buying an air horn. Ta ta for now.